Discharger

Any comments on the use of Titebond Original Wood Glue for normal balsa and ply scratch building?
I've been using Weldbond for years but it's suddenly become difficult to obtain in my part of the world.

carlosponti

My Feedback: (1)

I have built with it for a while now. I think you will like it just fine. I started with CA and due to issues with using CA I switched to titebond. Built a dynaflight chipmunk almost entirely from titebond.

KW_Counter

Titebond original is NOT waterresistant but sands well.
Titebond II is water is water resistant but does NOT sand well.
Titebond III is water resistant and does sand well.

Info from an article I read in a RC mag, not sure which one or when.

I am using Titebond II for repairs and it works well.
When the bottle is empty I will go to III.

Just some info I thought I would pass on.

Good Luck,
KW_Counter

richg99

KW thanks...it is this kind of information that keeps me reading here every day. rich

JFranco

My Feedback: (2)

I have used to to sheet wings and never had a problem.

Discharger

Thank you all for the replies. I think it will be just fine.
I was concerned that it is a bit on the brittle side when dry but then so is CA glue!

spanishflyer

Hello

I had the same question due to breath problems with CA.

CA is fast but I can´t stand working with it. I can buy Titebond III here, I tried it in some scrap and is slow while curing...but seems to be so strong as CA, is anybody agree with this?
Can titebond III support stress like CA when using it in a entire plane???

Any answer is wellcome, thanks..

carlos

Dzlstunter

I know of a professional model builder who builds for some VERY picky people and who uses plain Elmer's All-Purpose white glue for everything but laminating, gear blocks, and firewalls. I've been doing the same for years because of a CA aversion. Good luck, Dzl

tater1

good old elmers I use the yellow as the white is brittle,works in about every application that I have needed

bkdavy

My Feedback: (1)

Another vote for the Elmers Carpenters Glue. The glue usually lasts longer than the plane anyway.

Brad

Charlie P.

I like the Titebond II and get around the sanding problem by keeping a dish of water and a rag handy to wipe off excess. Apply it with a solder (acid) brush and use the same brush after rinsing in water to clean around the joint. You'll build lighter and stronger. I have heard Titebond III is brittle when dry but have no experience with it.

If you laminate larger pieces you'll have to pin or add weight to keep it from warping as there is a lot of moisture in the Titebond and the wood swells and dishes. Not a problem if you keep the pieces flat mechanically.

crossman

Midway through my last build, I found myself having a lot of sinus problems from the CA. After reading a few threads on here, I switched to carpenter’s glue and then Titebond II with no issues. I don’t always consider the slower drying to be a negative about the wood glues. With CA, I could only build for about ½ an hour without problems. For repairs that I have done since and on my current project (Midwest Stearman), I have used CA only to repair a couple of formers that I managed to crack. As far as laminating with the wood glues, I have laid the assemblies on top of my table saw with a piece of plywood and some weights to hold them flat.

On top of any other advantages, the Titebond is a lot cheaper than 3.00-4.00 an oz for CA’s

dignlivn

I used Titebond II and epoxy on my Astro Hog, no
complaints other than sanding,


Bob

vmsguy

Like others here I started out with CA.. but now only use CA for CA hinges. otherwis I use Titebond II..

On my latest build, I was very diligent, and made sure to wipe away all the excess glue before it dried. Sanding was a breeze.

spanishflyer

Thanks for all opinions, I have been continuing my build with Titebond III, its not going to be slower, as I make steps everyday afterwork.
I Let parts cure all day and go on!!

SeamusG

I have used Titebond standard, Titebond II and Elmers w/ wood fiber. I did a "butt joint" test comparing the 3 (plus 3 non-AR glues). I glued 1/4" x 1/2" x 3" sticks of medium balsa to 1/4" x 3" x 12" medium balsa. The Elmer's appeared to be the strongest when all were stressed to bond failure. T standard &amp; Elmer's sanded equally well and T II was rubbery - especially when used to apply a sheet of balsa (1/16" thick) to the top of a balsa trailing edge - then sanded down over the length of the trailing edge. Once the glue started to be exposed things got messy.<div>
</div><div><div>If you use AR as a fillet (or intentionally apply so much that it squeezes out the sides of the joint creating a fillet) Titebond Std and Elmer's will remain rubbery. I know this because I just removed the sheeting from a wing that had had AR fillets around the rib edges and the sheeting. A bit of heat gun increases the rubbery characteristic (reactivating the glue) and a lot of heat will torch the glue turning it dark amber, almost black, and brittle. Then it can be removed - note - this is just below the heat where the balsa chars.</div><div>
</div><div>In stick construction, I dab a bit of AR on the end cuts of wood before re-applying glue when the piece is fitted. This will allow a bit of glue to be absorbed into the end grain and then the glue up is more consistent. I also add a drop of thin CA on the sides of the cured AR (not on the exposed seam that will be sanded / covered) as insurance. </div></div>