Few questions how i do great looking covering?
#1
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Does i need paint my plane white before i seal it with monokote? Paint are may needed because yellow is not good color to hide various darker spots on the wood, after covering they are visible trough on yellow. (I hope you understand what i meant because i don't have an idea to say it better words
)
Does sealing iron require a cover sock or can use iron just without it?
How i can avoid bubbles what come when i add monokote on another monokote?
What i do with trim solvent?
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Does sealing iron require a cover sock or can use iron just without it?
How i can avoid bubbles what come when i add monokote on another monokote?
What i do with trim solvent?
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#2
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No need to paint. Just sand and clean the airframe and cover. To avoid bubbles start with a low heat and work your way up until the monokote adheres with no bubbles. Also go around the edges with some monokote trim solvent to keep them down.
Good luck
Good luck
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YOU DON'T NEED A SOCK ON YOUR IRON BUT USING ONE WILL ELIMINATE MARRING ON YOUR COVERING. TRIM SOLVENT WILL ALLOW YOU TO APPLY TRIM WITHOUT HEAT WHICH IS THE PRINCPAL SOURCE OF BUBBLES.JUST WIPE A THIN COATING ON WITH A CLOTH OR SWAB AND APPLY TRIM DIRECT WITHOUT ANY HEAT. THE SOLVENT WILL ACTIVATE THE ADHEASIVE AND STICK IT DOWN. yOU STILL NEED TO WIPE ALL THE AIR OUT OR YOU WILL STILL GET SOME BUBBLES. THE PROBLEM OF DARK SPOTS SHOWING THROUGH THE COVERING IS A TOUGH ONE. I FIND THAT I NEED TO TRY TO USE A FILLER THATS IS AS NEAR THE SAME COLOR AS THE WOOD AS I CAN GET TO ELIMINATE THE SPOTS THAT SHOW THROUGH. SOMETIMES I USE SOME KIND OF COATING ON THE WOOD UNDERNEATH THE COVERING IN PREPARATION FOR THE COVERING TO GET AN EVEN COLORING ON THE SERFACE BEFORE COVERING. BALSA COLORED FILLER DOES PRETTY GOOD FOR THIS.
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Giant scale I wasn't really yelling, I just had the cap lock on and didn't notice it till I was half way through and didn't want to start over.I apologize
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Aren't you supposed to perforate the bottom layer of monocote to prevent bubbles? I think they make a tool for this but you can just use a needle and poke the hell out of it. Then it should be easier to push the bubbles out. I could be wrong though. I'm not that good at covering yet =)
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Depending on the size piece you want to put on, you can "float" it on over existing film covering.
Cut the piece to the design you want. Clean the area it is to go with alcohol. Spray with BLUE WINDEX and put the piece in position. When happy with the position, squeege out the excess Windex (an old playing card is ideal) working from the center out and let dry for 24+ hours. Then seal the edges with an iron on low.
If you make a mistake, just respray with BLUE WINDEX while it is still wet.
The BLUE WINDEX reacts with and softens (activates) the adhesive on the film.
The "float" method allows you plenty of time to align the piece without the possibility of an "oops".
Cut the piece to the design you want. Clean the area it is to go with alcohol. Spray with BLUE WINDEX and put the piece in position. When happy with the position, squeege out the excess Windex (an old playing card is ideal) working from the center out and let dry for 24+ hours. Then seal the edges with an iron on low.
If you make a mistake, just respray with BLUE WINDEX while it is still wet.
The BLUE WINDEX reacts with and softens (activates) the adhesive on the film.
The "float" method allows you plenty of time to align the piece without the possibility of an "oops".