santi

My Feedback: (32)

Well its been about 6 gallons later and i had thought i had a flet clunk in the tank. Well upon opening up the tank i noticed i had just the stock clunk in there with out any screen. Now im thinking that there are lots of deposits in my carb. This is my first gasser and would like to get a tip on where to clean and which screws do i need to undo to get there. A step by step would be nice
Thanks in advance.

Santi

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Santi, cleaning your Carb can be pretty easy or.. pretty difficult depending on what's needed in each case. There is a screen that filters the fuel on the intake side of the carb. This would be the side that has the fuel nipple closest to it.. Remove the covering and inspect the screen. If its dirty clean it and put it back. If your engine is/was running ok.. it probably didn't have much in it.
If you have/had problems with adjusting your needles (fuel starvation) then more surgery would be in order. To do that you need a Carb Rebuild Kit. This kit contains the metal welch plugs that cover the jet openings. Those need to be pryed out with an Awl, the jets (small through holes) cleaned and the plugs replaced with new, undamaged ones. In that kit you will also have new diaphragms and gaskets which you may replace.
Hopefully you won't need to perform the second operation. Hope this helps. BobH.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

If the engine is running fine, I would leave it alone. If you want to clean the screen it will depend on the carburetor you have. I have the WT76A and I remove the 4 screws on the fuel inlet side. I use carburetor cleaner to blow off the screen instead of removing it.

Aero330LX

My Feedback: (-1)

If one is not running right, and it is definitely the carb (all other things should be checked first), then the only real way to be sure it is clean is to remove the welsh plugs and clean is completely...if you've never done that before, best leave that to somebody that has. Like a small engine shop or the manufacturer where the engine was bought. Getting them out and back in correctly can be tricky if you've never seen it done. The screen is an easy fix, but if it's stopped up somewhere in the passageways, the only real way to get it clean is to pop the plugs and totally disassemble it to get the garbage out.

santi

My Feedback: (32)

Tanks for all the response guys. The problem that i just recently experienced is that after flying on a 24 oz tank. The engine wants to die on the final approach at idle. thats where i came up with the conclusion of the screen in the carb being cloged or dirty maybe thats what i should have asked on this thread instead It starts up fine, idles perfect when first started. but when im up in the air and coming down on the final approach it quit. would you think there is something i need to do with the low speed needle? getting frustrated with this.

Thanks,
Santi

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

Try flying for a minute or so then land. Does it still do it or just when you are landing with a near empty tank?

santi

My Feedback: (32)

When i fly it for a minute then land its ok. Just when the engine has had some time on it say like 10 mins or so. I am landing when there is still about 1/3 gas still left in the tank.

Santi

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

I think you may have something wrong with your pickup in your tank. I would check that as well.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Santi, are you sure its not a heat problem?... sounds like it could be. Once your engine gets too hot... it begins to slow down and stop.. just something to think about.. And use Fresh Fuel.. if you don't already have it.. BobH.

santi

My Feedback: (32)

that was the first place i checked was the pickup in the tank. There was nothing unusual in there. Bob i think that could be the factor. I will expose the cooling fins a bit more and check that out this weekend. I let you all know how that turned out. If there is any other suggestions you can think of let me know. BTW the engine is a TS42 on a dave patrick extra.

Thanks,
Santi

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

If cooling is a problem, make sure the exit is bigger. It will have the largest effect. The speed of the air over the fins is more improtant that the volume of air. That is why baffles work great for cooling but the volume around the cylinder is sometimes less.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Santi. a couple of things on your cooling. You need 3 times the exit volume as the entering volume. Your plane will run cooler with a baffled cowl than it will with the cowl off. Make sure the air can exit without restriction.. See if any of this helps... BobH.

Geistware

My Feedback: (16)

I think I am running into an overheating problem as well. It looks like my problem is the muffler. It is blocking the flow of the air from the cylinder to the exit.

santi

My Feedback: (32)

well i have exposed the cylinder fins almost all the way now. hope this helps. Its just been very hot here in california Modesto. Today the temp reached 107 and tomorrow it will be 100+ again. Whew. :bananahea Well if the problems keep occuring. I wouldnt know what to do next. You think i can richen up the low end needle up a bit? Well tomorrow i will find out. I hope there will be no more deadsticks cause the last time it happened. I delaminated my CF landing gears. With a little bit of repair its fixed once more and ready to try it again. Wish me luck. I will keep you posted on how it went after flying.......

Happy flying
Santi

santi

My Feedback: (32)

finally went out and flew her today. What a difference that was in cooling the engine. It ran cool the whole time flying from start to finish. Having the cooling fins exposed helped out a lot, as far as the dead stick went, it never happened again. flown it 8 times today with out a dead stick. I Still need to clean the screen on the carb as it has some dirt in there from all the gallons i ran so far. All went well and now its for some more flying Thanks everyone for there $.02

Happy flying
Santi