Jackal1983

Hi Guys,

Had a few problems with my Zenoah Motor.

The boat is running on salt water to start with!!! The engine doesnt really get wet and its sprayed with water repelant before and after i use it... and while we use it..
To weeks ago at low throttle the engine cut and the spark totally disapeared!! Couldnt get it back at the side of the lake!!
Got home and i got a very weak spark back! Changed all the coils and the spark isent any better!
So tock it out today and after around 10min it cut out and no spark... It then started to come back.

The HT coil seems to be testing ok... Im not to sure how to test the Primary coil.
Spark plug gap is set at 0.6mm the air cap on the coils is set at 0.3.

Ive disconnected kill switch from engine so thats not playing!! The only think it can be is Primary coil but can someone tell me how to test it please or has someone got any other ideas!!!

Jack

Jackal1983

Update!!!

Ive got a stronger spark due to ignoring the Zenoah manual and going even closer to the flywheel with the Primary coil.
I basically put a peice of paper between the flywheel and the primary andturned the flywheel until the magnets pulled the coil into the flywheel.. Then pulled the paper out and checked to see if it was touching anywhere which its not!!

Still a none starter tho!! Plenty of spark but to much fuel left in crank case after pulling it all afternoon!!! So just taken plug out and left it!!!

Nosedragger

Thats too close its going to rub.check the owners manual it says how to test coils.

phillio35

take off fly wheel and see if woodruff key is brock or missing i had same problem

Jackal1983

Well when I take it to what the manual says. It's very very very weak spark. Coils seem to test out to manual!! <div>At the mo I have a good spark. It's got me a few times!!! </div><div>Plenty of fuel getting in there but yet not firing!</div><div>
</div><div>I'm going to check the woodruff key tomorrow see if its snapped or I didn't put it in correctly when I assembled it. Might explain why I'm getting everything to make it fire except timing. </div><div>
</div>

silverz98

use a business card to get the gap close

Jackal1983

Cheers Phillio35 woodruff key had snaped and flywheel spun!!!
 Flywheel is abit buggered but cranks good to go!!!



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HendricX

Next time when building up the flywheel :

Use a steel washer and a steel nut M8x1 to tighten the flywheel ,
while holding the flywheel with a flywheel-spanner (tool) .

After the flywheel is secured , remove steelnut/washer , and replace by the pullstarter-dog.

And if you're running in salt water ... did you seal the openings and wire-exits on the coils ?

danielplace

Most importantly buttom the flywheel till it seats fully and it will crush on no further. Most are never properly installed after repairs are made. These things must be tight and fully on the taper. You are spinning the heavy flywheel at high rpm and it will work loose on the taper and the flywheel and dog/pawl nut will be loose. NEVER use a piston stop to hold the engine or especially the collet or clutch shoe holder while doing the flywheel or by flywheel when working on collet and/or clutch parts. It must be held by the end half that you are working on.

http://youtu.be/vjZdQqV002c