Oil Residue on my servo box after two tanks
#1
![Cool](images/icons/icon6.gif)
I am new to this hobby and have had my Red Cat Shockwavefor over 4 months now. I have fine tuned and broke myengine in using 1QT startup nitro with kit. The buggy is running greatwith only minor issues or maybe non issue all together. If you have a buggy like mine or similar, I appreciate if you can help address two questions that been on my mind.
1) One of the rear wheel keeps coming loose and at first I thought brokeaxle but closer look I found rod pin at bottom wheelbase keeps workingits way out. Push it back in and wheel lock in place again. I'vetighten what I believe might be a set screw beneath it but wanted to ask ifthat will prevent rod pin from coming loose again. I've notice design onfront axle is different; the Front has a locking washers on both ends of therod pin to keep from slippage. Why the front and not the back setwheelbase?
2) Like I said above, I've used up my 1 QT nitro 20% and checked out my localhobby town store for supply. At the time, all they carried was Byron 30%Gen 2 and I thought to give it a try after confirming with Red Cat customersupport that % was ok for engine. I had no issues with using this product on this engine but today I've notice that my servo box was bit wet with oil residue. I've notice this after running 2nd tank dry and car stalled. I didn't notice this film of oil accumulating on the servo box on previous runs and wanted to know whether it's because using 30% fuel and on fairly cold low 50F Allentown, Pa weather. I did have to lean out the high speed needle and routinely checked engine temp ~200-245F with my IR temp gun. There was no signs of overheating or anything... I don't believe I have a leak but could anybody shed some light on whether this is normal occurrence or not? And is it all to do with tuning...
Again, thank you in advance for any advice.
1) One of the rear wheel keeps coming loose and at first I thought brokeaxle but closer look I found rod pin at bottom wheelbase keeps workingits way out. Push it back in and wheel lock in place again. I'vetighten what I believe might be a set screw beneath it but wanted to ask ifthat will prevent rod pin from coming loose again. I've notice design onfront axle is different; the Front has a locking washers on both ends of therod pin to keep from slippage. Why the front and not the back setwheelbase?
2) Like I said above, I've used up my 1 QT nitro 20% and checked out my localhobby town store for supply. At the time, all they carried was Byron 30%Gen 2 and I thought to give it a try after confirming with Red Cat customersupport that % was ok for engine. I had no issues with using this product on this engine but today I've notice that my servo box was bit wet with oil residue. I've notice this after running 2nd tank dry and car stalled. I didn't notice this film of oil accumulating on the servo box on previous runs and wanted to know whether it's because using 30% fuel and on fairly cold low 50F Allentown, Pa weather. I did have to lean out the high speed needle and routinely checked engine temp ~200-245F with my IR temp gun. There was no signs of overheating or anything... I don't believe I have a leak but could anybody shed some light on whether this is normal occurrence or not? And is it all to do with tuning...
Again, thank you in advance for any advice.
#2
![Default](images/icons/icon1.gif)
if the nut on the rear is coming loose put some blue loctite on the thread prior to tightening the nut, and let it sit a few hours that sucker won't come off or loosen on its own again ![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Make sure its blue, and not red loctite though as if you use red... you will basically have to break the part to get it off
As for oil splatters on the parts is generally normal on nitro based RC's cause depending on how much oil comes out the exhaust it can splatter in all types of ways.
Like when I used Traxxas Crapfuel I was sputtering so much oil all over I don't think there was a single piece that didn't have some oil residue on it I even had the damn engine cut out due to too much oil buildup in the exhaust. Switched to O'donnel, and there was a lot less, and my engines stopped cutting out due to the exhaust clogging with oil.
As for tuning all I can say is if you want to know all about tuning watch Squirrels videos on youtube he will explain pretty much every single aspect, and what type of things will happen if its too lean, or rich, and will explain how to change the tune for different weather conditions in depth.
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Make sure its blue, and not red loctite though as if you use red... you will basically have to break the part to get it off
As for oil splatters on the parts is generally normal on nitro based RC's cause depending on how much oil comes out the exhaust it can splatter in all types of ways.
Like when I used Traxxas Crapfuel I was sputtering so much oil all over I don't think there was a single piece that didn't have some oil residue on it I even had the damn engine cut out due to too much oil buildup in the exhaust. Switched to O'donnel, and there was a lot less, and my engines stopped cutting out due to the exhaust clogging with oil.
As for tuning all I can say is if you want to know all about tuning watch Squirrels videos on youtube he will explain pretty much every single aspect, and what type of things will happen if its too lean, or rich, and will explain how to change the tune for different weather conditions in depth.
#3
![Cool](images/icons/icon6.gif)
I really appreciate your feedback and your help in satisfying my curiosity. I have some attach pictures to show where oil appears to be generating from the bottom (2) fins engine heat sink and transferring to the servo box. You can see the yellow coating on the inside ribs. Is that normal? I don't recall seeing this using 20% Nitro but again not sure if it has anything to do with type of fuel used. I've just started using Byron 30% Gen II which is all hobby shop had and Red Cat racing said that engine is fine up to 33%. One thing I do often is 3-4 drops after oil inside engine and carb at end of each session.
Again, only ran 2 tanks this morning in 50-53F weather after snow yesterday... crazy weather in Allentown, Pa.
Thanks,
Kevin
Again, only ran 2 tanks this morning in 50-53F weather after snow yesterday... crazy weather in Allentown, Pa.
Thanks,
Kevin
Last edited by HueyC; 04-10-2016 at 04:23 PM.
#4
![Default](images/icons/icon1.gif)
I really appreciate your feedback and your help in satisfying my curiosity. I have some attach pictures to show where oil appears to be generating from the bottom (2) fins engine heat sink and transferring to the servo box. You can see the yellow coating on the inside ribs. Is that normal? I don't recall seeing this using 20% Nitro but again not sure if it has anything to do with type of fuel used. I've just started using Byron 30% Gen II which is all hobby shop had and Red Cat racing said that engine is fine up to 33%. One thing I do often is 3-4 drops after oil inside engine and carb at end of each session.
Again, only ran 2 tanks this morning in 50-53F weather after snow yesterday... crazy weather in Allentown, Pa.
Thanks,
Kevin
Again, only ran 2 tanks this morning in 50-53F weather after snow yesterday... crazy weather in Allentown, Pa.
Thanks,
Kevin