Using frabric covering, nitrate dope, etc., looking for specific guidelines
03-16-2003, 12:12 PM
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Using frabric covering, nitrate dope, etc., looking for specific guidelines
I know there are a lot variations to using fabric. I have a fair idea of how to do it, but have a few specific questions. Sig sells Koverall and Stix-it, a heat-based adhesive. How does stix-it compare to nitrate dope?
Should one cover the entire frame with nitrate dope, including the edges? Does nitrate dope have adhesive qualities compared to Stix-it?
How about solartex? Do you use the same procedure or just apply it like monokote, and just paint it?
I know once a procedure is figured out, it will be easy. If someone could lay out a guide line, step by step procedure for prepping the frame, (do you use nitrate), then apply covering, then nitrate on covering, how many coats of what, brush or spray, etc., I would greatly appreciate some insight.
I had my wife pick up some dress/jacket lining at Walmart, 100 percent polyester, which is what Koverall is, and is $2.00 a yard. Will that work with the same results?
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. If you prefer, you may e-mail me your comments and suggestions, but others may like it in the forum.
Brian G., Minnesota
Should one cover the entire frame with nitrate dope, including the edges? Does nitrate dope have adhesive qualities compared to Stix-it?
How about solartex? Do you use the same procedure or just apply it like monokote, and just paint it?
I know once a procedure is figured out, it will be easy. If someone could lay out a guide line, step by step procedure for prepping the frame, (do you use nitrate), then apply covering, then nitrate on covering, how many coats of what, brush or spray, etc., I would greatly appreciate some insight.
I had my wife pick up some dress/jacket lining at Walmart, 100 percent polyester, which is what Koverall is, and is $2.00 a yard. Will that work with the same results?
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. If you prefer, you may e-mail me your comments and suggestions, but others may like it in the forum.
Brian G., Minnesota
03-17-2003, 08:42 AM
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Using frabric covering, nitrate dope, etc., looking for specific guidelines
Hello onemoreflight
I use sig koverall and nitrate on all my planes, good stuff very strong . the way i do it is put two coats of nitrate on the frame work this will become the glue for the koverall. then you put on the covering and apply a coat of nitrate on just the edges to tack the covering on, start at one side or another when that is dry , dries very fast snug up the covering and tack the other edge down, just like you were puting on monocoat,once you have it all tacked down and it is dry just skrink it up.then you put at least 3 coats of nitrate on it ,very light sanding between coats also use a camel hair brush wont leave brush marks.then you are ready for the final finish you can switch to butylrate which is fuel proof nitrate isn't or you can use automotive paint too.there are several types of paint to use just try a sample to see if they are compatible nitrate and butylrate are a laquer base so not all paints will work with them. as far as the stik it goes I have never used it. and the polyester I havent tried it either but have heard of poeple using it . it is about twice as much work to do it this way but it will last a long time and not wrinkle on you, just like the old saying try it you will like it . if you need more help just email me .good luck.
I use sig koverall and nitrate on all my planes, good stuff very strong . the way i do it is put two coats of nitrate on the frame work this will become the glue for the koverall. then you put on the covering and apply a coat of nitrate on just the edges to tack the covering on, start at one side or another when that is dry , dries very fast snug up the covering and tack the other edge down, just like you were puting on monocoat,once you have it all tacked down and it is dry just skrink it up.then you put at least 3 coats of nitrate on it ,very light sanding between coats also use a camel hair brush wont leave brush marks.then you are ready for the final finish you can switch to butylrate which is fuel proof nitrate isn't or you can use automotive paint too.there are several types of paint to use just try a sample to see if they are compatible nitrate and butylrate are a laquer base so not all paints will work with them. as far as the stik it goes I have never used it. and the polyester I havent tried it either but have heard of poeple using it . it is about twice as much work to do it this way but it will last a long time and not wrinkle on you, just like the old saying try it you will like it . if you need more help just email me .good luck.
03-17-2003, 06:55 PM
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Using frabric covering, nitrate dope, etc., looking for specific guidelines
Thanks, Flyboy.
I made a sample frame with a couple of ribs, and used the Stix-it, from Sig. The nitrate loosens up the stix-it, although after the stix-it dries, an iron really sticks the fabric on well. Not sure if I like that step. Such as doing your fin, etc., where you have seems, do you butt up to the seam, or can you overlap the material a little?
Will have to practice more. May try some solartex fabric. Want to get it down well, before I take the big plunge.
Thanks again,
Brian G., Park Rapids, Mn
I made a sample frame with a couple of ribs, and used the Stix-it, from Sig. The nitrate loosens up the stix-it, although after the stix-it dries, an iron really sticks the fabric on well. Not sure if I like that step. Such as doing your fin, etc., where you have seems, do you butt up to the seam, or can you overlap the material a little?
Will have to practice more. May try some solartex fabric. Want to get it down well, before I take the big plunge.
Thanks again,
Brian G., Park Rapids, Mn
04-11-2003, 10:36 PM
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Using frabric covering, nitrate dope, etc., looking for specific guidelines
Koverall and Nitrate gets my vote. I've done a number of models in this manner and the results are worth every bit of the effort. Fabulous stuff. You can keep the weight down too by careful sanding to remove excess dope. All you want to do is seal the weave of the fabric...not blanket it.
Ridiculously strong. Makes Monokote look like wet toilet paper. VERY authentic looking on the right project. If you've done the work....wait until you see what it looks like after a good working over with polishing compound!!!
WOW!!
Solartex is a very good fabric for iron on as well. It already has a solid color, so one need only apply the material then give it a light "seal" coat with a clear fuel proof paint. Clear dope, or a clear, fuel proof enamel is fine.
Neither material is for every plane...but it sure is nice stuff.
04-25-2003, 08:00 PM
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Using frabric covering, nitrate dope, etc., looking for specific guidelines
I give you guys another use for Koverall. My local hobby shop ran out of nitrate dope. After two weeks I starting thinking about alternatives. I used stixit around the outer edges of the framework only, I covered the entire moldel then shrunk the Koverall with a heat gun. Next I mixed denatured alcohol thinned fihish-cure epoxy and saturated the fabric with a wide camel hair brush. The result was absolutely amazing! What I got was something that simulated sressed skin aluminum! And this complemented my warbird nicely. I finished it off with Cheveron paints. I featured the end result in Model Aviation News, and I'm guessing June 2000 for those of you who what to look it up. It was a kit-bashed and recovered Kyosho Bf109.
