rfg06

My Feedback: (8)

Does aliphatic glue create a stronger bond than CA or are they about the same in bond strength?

Ernest-T

My Feedback: (7)

The wood will fail before the joint with both. CA is more expensive, more toxic, doesn't sand as well, and is less flexible. The only advantage to CA IMO is its quick set. I try to use aliphatic glue in areas where I don't need speed.

majortom-RCU

My Feedback: (40)

They are for all practical purposes the same, in that the wood will fail before the bond. This is true across pretty much all the commonly used modeling glues--CA, aliphatic, epoxy, urethane. I can't remember exactly where I saw an article on this topic, but it was a well-designed series of tests published in one of the RC publications.

There are of course many other characteristics which will favor one glue over another, depending on the particular application. I like the convenience and quick curing time of CA, but the fumes are a serious problem. If I need to use CA in the house, it's only with a respirator. Pica Glu-it sets up fast for an aliphatic.

Jimmbbo

Ditto what Ernest T said, plus it affords the ability to "fine tune" parts alignhment and cleans up much better using just water...

Jim

voyager_663rd

Concur. Unless strength is needed (epoxy for firewall), I use (elmers) yellow carpenters glue (aliphatic) for all. Exception is tacking and then a dot of CA does it.

Putz Brother

Pica Glu-it sets up fast for an aliphatic. I whole heartedly agree with this. Love the Pica Gluit and agree that it sets up almost as fast as CA+. Plus you don't have the fumes, you're not picking the stuff off you fingers all night , glueing parts to yourself and not the aircraft, plus if you figure how much you are paying per ounce the cost difference is quite large. Clean up with soap and water instead of with a chemical. Three of my friends have stated using this instead of C/A. C/A still has it's place in my shop but for smaller uses.
I don't think that strength is an issue with either product. Randy

grejen

I built an entire Goldberg Electra with C/A and now I can't stand opening a bottle of it.[:'(] My eyes sting and water badly. Have to use aliphatic. I only get a couple minutes or an hour or so at a time in between family life so I have no problem setting things up and gluing then comming back to it next day. Takes 6 months to build a small plane though! The nice thing with CA is being able to hold it for 10seconds and it's done. With aliphatic I sometimes spend a lot of time figuring out how to clamp or hold it in position while the glue sets.

plasticjoe

My Feedback: (22)

I am to the covering stage of a Goldburg Ultimate Bipe 10-300 kit. This is the first time I have tried Alphiatic to build with and I will never go back to CA. As far as dry time, tape it in place, let it sit overnight, and the next evening, it's plenty strong enough to handle. And as far as sanding, soooo much more superior. CA is like trying to sand epoxy off of soft balsa, and apliatic is like sanding a lite filler off of balsa. It sands soooo much easier and as far as sheeting, it's awesome ! Mix it with microballons and you have a sandable filler also. CA has it's place, but on this kit, I have not even used a whole bottle yet. I am alphiatic from now on, used to be CA cause I thought alphiatic was for "old guys" but now I guess the "old guys" know more and we "youngins" should listen !!

CafeenMan

Aliphatic is better.

- Paul

kamakasi

My Feedback: (3)

I use ca as a clamp when I use aliphatic. A couple of drops to hold things in place then wait.

kdheath

One of the best builders I know uses regular old white Elmer's glue bought by the gallon. Tried it, he's right. Works like a charm. I just don't soak them in water....

Patriot

So, how does aliphatic hold up fuel compared to CA. I know CA will hold for a while, at least till you can clean it up, but it WILL eventually fail.
Will Aliphatic hold up better when fuel, or even a little exhaust oil comes in contact with it?

Patriot

CafeenMan

I don't know the answer to that because I never use aliphatic where fuel will come into contact with it. I suspect it would break down after a while though.

Putz Brother

Not sure and I use the stuff pretty exclusively. My guess is though the balsa that it was bonding would give up before the glue would.

Patriot

Reason I ask is because Aliphatic is much lighter than epoxy, and is very easy to thin with water, and clean up. I was thinking it may make a good fuel proofer in the tank compartment area, instead of using urathanes or epoxy. Just a thought. If not, then it is just as easy to stick with the ol'reliable ('poxy).

Cafeenman, did you see mt thread on shear webs? Any thoughts on what would be best?

Patriot

CafeenMan

No.

PLANE JIM

My Feedback: (109)

Be carefull when using pica glue around the engine area-the great thing about pica glue is mention above, easy clean-up, sandable and I use it alot-but heat will soften this glue-I use heat gun at times to soften glue lines at sheeting and leading edges and it will reactivate and become soft-

CafeenMan

I've never used Pica glue for one reason. They say it is sandable which means they add something to it. I have to assume that the additive weakens the glue. But I also assume that like most glues, the wood will fail before the glue does. I'm happy with my Titebond V.1 though.

Putz Brother

Titebond works well also, I am just hooked on the Pica. Not sure if there is an additive may contact Pica to find out.

Bob Yeager

My Feedback: (5)

Ol' Yeller Quickset from Woodworker's Supply is absolutely the best ailaphatic available anywhere.

http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=926-565

Mavi91

My two cents: one of the things I like about aliphatic glue is its ability to polymerize when heated. Heat causes a chemical change that makes the joint waterproof and seemingly very strong. Try this: spread a thin layer on the two surfaces to be bonded, then wipe it off. When dry to the touch...usually about 10 minutes, put the two parts together and heat with a household iron set to "wool." The bond is instant and permanent. I wouldn't make a "D-tube" any other way. I wish it worked on thicker material!

One stunt I've been using lately is smearing the glue on paper strips and then covering joints with it. When the glue is dry, I go back over it with my Monokote iron. This makes a joint really strong. Another stunt is to use the ironing process to sandwich envelope thickness Tyvek between two 1/16" sheets of balsa. This is great for making super tough, non-warping stabs and fins for small planes. Remember the part about wiping the glue off and letting it dry first ...otherwise you will get warps.