Film Covering Technique
#1
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I don't remember that article but; I have found that any of the alphatic resin glues such as Titebond, Titebond II, most carpenter glues all make a very good base for the films. Just put on as thin a coat as you can, let it dry and then iron on the covering. I also found this is a very good way to make covering stick on old fuel soaked wood. Just get all the oil out you can then coat with alphatic glue, let it dry and then iron on the covering. You can also put your cap strips on this way, just coat the rib dedges with alphatic glue, let it dry then iron on the wooden cap strips. If the cap strips are thicker than 1/16 inch it will take a very hot iron though.
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My preference when pre-treating with a glue/water mix is to use Elmer's Carpenter's glue.
Yo can thin it as far as 70% water 30% glue and get good results. You can paint it on with a foam type brush or a soft bristle (most house-paint brushes are too coarse) or even spray it on by filling an old Windex bottle (or similar)
Just enough to dampen the wood's outer surface is plenty. If you soak the wood, you are adding excess weight.
I tend to only pre-treat in areas where extra fuel resistance is helpful... Around the nose to about 3 inches back, and then anyplace the exhast trail is expected to go. This reduces fuel soaking if the fuel seeps under the covering, and that's the main bennefit I've found from pre-treating like this.
Yo can thin it as far as 70% water 30% glue and get good results. You can paint it on with a foam type brush or a soft bristle (most house-paint brushes are too coarse) or even spray it on by filling an old Windex bottle (or similar)
Just enough to dampen the wood's outer surface is plenty. If you soak the wood, you are adding excess weight.
I tend to only pre-treat in areas where extra fuel resistance is helpful... Around the nose to about 3 inches back, and then anyplace the exhast trail is expected to go. This reduces fuel soaking if the fuel seeps under the covering, and that's the main bennefit I've found from pre-treating like this.
#3
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No, no sanding necessary. I have had best luck with NOT thinniong with water, just put it on with your finger and wipe off as much as you can. when you heat it, it flows out nicely.
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Might lightly spray the wood wth water then lightly sand off the raised grain... before treating. After treating sanding is more difficult.
It may help prevent lifting of the covering fromthe wood, thus less wrinkles on a flly sheeted surface. But the only real weapn against wrinkling from heat is to heat the covering to the max shrinkage temperature while applying it. The temp is just a few degrees below melting.. when you heat the covering that hot, it takes a firmer set, and is more resistant to relaxing while the plane's sitting in the car.
It may help prevent lifting of the covering fromthe wood, thus less wrinkles on a flly sheeted surface. But the only real weapn against wrinkling from heat is to heat the covering to the max shrinkage temperature while applying it. The temp is just a few degrees below melting.. when you heat the covering that hot, it takes a firmer set, and is more resistant to relaxing while the plane's sitting in the car.