How to polish Rustoleum Metallic Paint?
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Hi all,
I painted a project with Rustoleum Metallic Paint but after buffing it with a soft cloth, the surface becomes more reflective but at the same time becoming more "greyish". What can I do to make it have the "silverish" appearance? If I don't buff it, the surface is very prone to finger printing. DP
I painted a project with Rustoleum Metallic Paint but after buffing it with a soft cloth, the surface becomes more reflective but at the same time becoming more "greyish". What can I do to make it have the "silverish" appearance? If I don't buff it, the surface is very prone to finger printing. DP
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You might have to clearcoat it. I'm not sure how similar the Rustoleum is to Krylon metallic, but the back of the Krylon can says it is not a durable paint and rubbing is not good for it, and for a durable finish it must be clearcoated.
I painted a MA prop with "dull aluminum", and it also showed prints really bad, and I could rub the paint off with my finger. I used an automotive clearcoat (acrylic enamel) and it shines like a new dime now, but did not alter the lustre of the aluminum color.
I painted a MA prop with "dull aluminum", and it also showed prints really bad, and I could rub the paint off with my finger. I used an automotive clearcoat (acrylic enamel) and it shines like a new dime now, but did not alter the lustre of the aluminum color.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "fingerprinting." Actual marks in the paint?? If that is the case what you are seeing is an uncured finish. Rubbing it will bring the superficial gloss up ( leveling the surface ) but if it is still a bit soft, millions of tiny scratches tend to "grey" the finish. The only answer is to let the paint fully cure, rub again - or -clearcoat the finish and rub that ( after fully curing ). Seldom will a un-cleared METALLIC finish rub correctly without a certain degree of "grey". Because most of the finish is composed of metallic flake (aluminum or mylar) vs. resin it will never quite give you that mirror look you were hoping for. This is why we almost always clear a metallic or pearlescent color in the automotive world if the finish is going to be polished. Much easier to polish clear than on color.
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
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Thanks for the reply. I notice that unless the metallic paint is designed to be buffed (like Testors line), buffing the chrome paint will turn it into grey color. This is the knight that was painted in Rustoleum Chrome Metallic paint and then was buffed. You can see the greyish look on the armor. May have to repaint it and leave alone. DP
Moderator: Please do not delete this thread since it can be related to painting A/C. Thanks.
Moderator: Please do not delete this thread since it can be related to painting A/C. Thanks.
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I sprayed the inside of a clear canopy with Rustolium aluminum. Beautiful aluminum seen from the inside, but just grey from the outside. I was not pleased. In my case the aluminum stuff came to the surface and the grey stuff went toward the substrate. Maybe you are just polishing the metal stuff off and exposing the grey underneath.
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When you paint metallic colors, the metal stands up and cures that way in the paint...that is what gives you that glittery appearance. When you sand or buff it, it cuts all the little peaks off the metal, and even if you clear coat to help bring the look back you will still loose some of the effect, because you have "flattened" the metalizing thats in it.
The nicest metallic paint jobs is when you don't fully gloss out the metallic, but leave it in a dust coat condition but still "solid" color, stopping just before it wets out. You try and keep the paint "standing up". This leaves a microscopic "3D" finish, and then when you clear coat it until its full, you get the most glitter effect. It will take more clear coats doing it this way (not lightweight) but for small trim patterns it works good.
The nicest metallic paint jobs is when you don't fully gloss out the metallic, but leave it in a dust coat condition but still "solid" color, stopping just before it wets out. You try and keep the paint "standing up". This leaves a microscopic "3D" finish, and then when you clear coat it until its full, you get the most glitter effect. It will take more clear coats doing it this way (not lightweight) but for small trim patterns it works good.
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ORIGINAL: jetpack
When you paint metallic colors, the metal stands up and cures that way in the paint...that is what gives you that glittery appearance. When you sand or buff it, it cuts all the little peaks off the metal, and even if you clear coat to help bring the look back you will still loose some of the effect, because you have "flattened" the metalizing thats in it.
The nicest metallic paint jobs is when you don't fully gloss out the metallic, but leave it in a dust coat condition but still "solid" color, stopping just before it wets out. You try and keep the paint "standing up". This leaves a microscopic "3D" finish, and then when you clear coat it until its full, you get the most glitter effect. It will take more clear coats doing it this way (not lightweight) but for small trim patterns it works good.
When you paint metallic colors, the metal stands up and cures that way in the paint...that is what gives you that glittery appearance. When you sand or buff it, it cuts all the little peaks off the metal, and even if you clear coat to help bring the look back you will still loose some of the effect, because you have "flattened" the metalizing thats in it.
The nicest metallic paint jobs is when you don't fully gloss out the metallic, but leave it in a dust coat condition but still "solid" color, stopping just before it wets out. You try and keep the paint "standing up". This leaves a microscopic "3D" finish, and then when you clear coat it until its full, you get the most glitter effect. It will take more clear coats doing it this way (not lightweight) but for small trim patterns it works good.
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Ahhh... Chrome color. The paint that is sold as "chrome" by various manufacturers can't be touched after it is applied - will ruin the bright finish. Jetpack is certainly on the right track there regarding the flake issues, they are compounded many times when you use something that says chrome. To keep it as bright as possible you must clearcoat it without ever having touched the color, even then you will most likely lose some of the brilliance just because of how the light is reflecting off of the silver base.
Dan
Dan