Norm Carroll

reaching the glassing stage on a Pica 1/5 p-51 and have read some tips on the poly/powder mixture. Have tested this on an old model and seems to work ok, but since this is my first time glassing, I need some expert advise. SO, should I go with this or stay with reg. poly resin method.
thanks
norm carroll

Mike James

Because I want to be SURE that the glass is properly adhered to the structure, I always use resin alone for the initial glassing. But for a surface finish, adding some baby powder (Talc) to the resin is somewhat like super-fine microballoons, and will work well.

As far as I can tell, it's completely inert in the mixture. You can also get thixotropic silica from a fiberglass supplier, such as http://www.fibreglast.com and it has similar properties.

Dzlstunter

For what it's worth, baby powder and pure talc are not the same. The baby powder has stuff in it to make the baby smell better, but some of this stuff reacts with some of our hobby stuff. (Note the clever use of hi-tech terminology!) When using a dope and talc filler coat, I use talc. That having been said, if you have experimented with it, and it works with your finishing system, you have answered your own question. Dzl

John M. Bigelow

May sell mirco glass beads I have used with exposie and some
paints BUT. CU

TigreST

I'm not sure about the resin and talc method, but I do know about the clear dope and talc method. If your looking for the non-baby butt talc, try your local pool table suppliers. Talc the sell is reported to be great for this non pool hobby use. As for myself I've been using clear dope and common run of the "mill" corn starch as you find in the kitchen to do a similar service. Again, not sure how corn starch reacts with resin materials, but it is inert in dope as a filler medium. If the starch content can be kept high and in suspension, it sure do sand easy when the dope is dry.

Tony

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

I like the dope/talc filler but I'm looking for a water based filler. Anyone know of a good one?

Dzlstunter

A good water-based system for filling wood grain is to make a brushable slurry of spackling compound and water, then brush it onto the wood. Make this as "dry" as possible, because some have reported problems with passing water even close to wood! But if the wood skin is not too thin, I have never had a problem with it. Once the goop is dry, take it OUTSIDE or in a WELL VENTILATED area to sand all of it off (leaving behind only that which is filling the pores). If you have ever sanded drywall, you know why it goes outside. Now you will need to seal this, so I use flooring-grade clear water-based Varthane. You will get 'hunnerd-eleven' opinions about the urethane, too! An alternative is a can of auto primer or other primer. You will want to apply it in some way which does not "lift" your filler out. I airbrushed the clear over the sealer (see pic). Whatever floats your boat! Good luck, Dzl

seaplane

I've had good luck with epoxy thinned 1:1 with alcohol to apply the glass cloth. The next coats are the same mixture but I add baby powder which makes sanding much easier. I've also had good luck applying the cloth with water based polyurethane. Sure makes cleanup easier!............Seaplane

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

I like seaplane's way. I tried that epoxy mixed with talc today on a test piece.

Hey how strong is the poly way of glassing? Dose it make a hard bond like epoxy? I 'm thinking that if you pull the corer of the glass that you can tear off the entire sheet off the wing. If that poly holds glass down like epoxy then I wont need to use epoxy anymore.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

The problem that will arise when using baby powder will be found when one starts to apply the trim colors, and when removing the tape (even low tack), the entire base coat can and will lift off in areas, what causes it? scented oils used, if talc is going to be used use unscented, cornstarch, microballons, chalk are probably better choices, but even then, do not over apply these fillers, as they do weaken the way that paint sticks to the surface, easy does it!