rcpilotsteve-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

I have been installing Blue Sullivan Nylon Gold-n-Rods. I just heard that some use steel ran through a protected case like the Nyrod setup. What do you all use ????
I have been experiencing trim changes bad trim changes this year with the hotter than usual temps in our region.

ilikeplanes

Good question. I used to think Sullivan rods were great. I've put them in close to a dozen airplanes. However, now that I've become picky about control rigidity, I think my next airplane will have either pull-pull cables or very short rods with servos mounted close to the control surface. There is simply no practical way to get a perfectly rigid and slop free control set-up with a long push rods. With four inch rods and ball links, it's easy.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

In the 40 to 60 size planes I use solid wire(although it's a bit heavier I still use it), inside the nyrod casing. I use what was to be the inner rod(yellow) for bushings. I cut several of the inner rod to about 5/16" or so, and push them onto the solid wire so they are spaced evenly and comfortably, and so they are far enough inside they can't bind with the end of the outer nyrod. A touch of CA is used if they want to slide, although if they slide to badly, you've got the wrong size rod/wire combo. The blue/yellow nyrod works very well like this, with 2/56 threaded inner wire pushrods. It definately makes a BIG difference. I've never really liked nyrod, for simple reason of flex, it flexes WAY to much for my tastes. The above method has alleviated that though.

rcpilotsteve-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

Solid wire, I like it. Do you thread either end or solder?? How do you connect the Servo and Control Surfaces??

lnorris

My Feedback: (1)

When I can't have a short control arm, I try and do a wooden dowl or fiberglass. On the kits where you've had the nyrod, I just swap the inner pushrod out for a metal one. I get the ones with threads on one side. I then find the length, cut it, and put a z-bend in the non-threaded side which I put at the servo arm. The threaded then got a screw on clevis which also made it easily adjusted from the outside of the plane.

One word of warning about doing this. I've never had any problem doing this but I'd still be careful were you run your receiver antenna. Keep it away from the rods. On my Mid-star I ran it down the belly on the outside which seemed to work fine.

paperairplanes

My Feedback: (10)

clevis is part number DuBro 817, a piece of 4-40 threaded rod, and K and S aluminum rod stock number 3060(3/16x.049). All you need to do is cut to length the rod, tap each end for 4-40,(dont even need to drill the hole as it is perfect) then add your threaded rod and clevises. Also on the threaded rod you can add a nut for security or just use some loctite. simple, strong, cheap... what else can you ask for? I got all this stuff from Tower. Your hobby shop might have everything but the aluminum rod.

paperairplanes

My Feedback: (10)

like you guys said before, the shorter the control rod the better, also your control surface mount should be just as sturdy. I tend to prefer some type of metal control horns. You could also go the carbon fiber ppushrod route. Just dont forget to check and make sure all surfaces are connected to your control rods before you fly!!!!! Ive seen it done.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

On the 40-60 size planes, I either use a pre-threaded 2/56 rod, I get about 24" threaded one end. On the other end is Z-bend.
If I don't use pre-threaded, I use a solder-on threaded coupler. Either way , I will z-bend all connections to servos when using 2/56 wire, except for the throttle, there I use EZtype adjustable connector.

On bigger planes, it's quite a bit different though, as the hardware gets bigger, throws are more critical, etc...
Matter of fact...GreatPlanes kits use the same technique, and very simialar applications. This is why kit building is very good, because you can learn all sorts of techniques, and tricks, just by following the books. Each manufacturer has there own style and ways of doing things, however the more manufacturers you build from, the more tricks you can learn.

I do hope this helps.

rcpilotsteve-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

This is helping big time. I've built a few kits but I have always ignored the stock rods and instructions. I thought The Sullivan Gold-n-Rods were the end all.

Bob Yeager

My Feedback: (5)

Does anyone have any experience with the Sullivan "Precision Rod", #580, "Carbon Fiber Reinforced"? These are touted as being less susceptible to temperature variations.

hattend

My Feedback: (20)

Although I mainly use fiberglass pushrods, I have 2 planes with the precision rods. They are noticable more temperature stable than the yellow plastic inserts although I don't fly in temperatures much above 80 degrees. My flying season sees temperatures from about 40 to 80. There are no noticable trim changes with that range.

Not much help for those of you in the lower 48, but there you go.

Don

KCFlyBoy

My Feedback: (12)

I used yellow nyrod on my first two planes. I am worried about precision now. I use pull pull on the rudder and very short metal rods on the ailerons. If I can't put the elevator servo in the tail I use pull /pull or carbon fiber arrow shafts with twin outputs they are very light and rigid. I never use metal rods longer than six or eight inches anything much longer than that cab interfere with the receiver and cause glitches. My $.02 CB

sideshow

My Feedback: (11)

I make my own length pushrods from carbon fiber tubing. They are very rigid and don't seem to be affected by temperature. It's really easy to do, check out....

http://www.darrolcady.com/Carbon_Fiber/carbon_fiber.htm

This where I got mine, they work great on my 29% Edge 540. Enjoy.


Bob

crosswind

If you've got a straight run, it's hard to bead carbon fiber arrow shafts. You can get them at any good sporting goods store. As mentioned in another thread here, sometimes you can get damaged ones not good for arrows free. On a small plane, .25 or so, I've been happy using balsa pushrods.

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

Hey paperairplanes,

Where do you get the K&S aluminum rod (#3060)???

Neither my LHS or Tower has rods with the correct inside diameter.

paperairplanes

My Feedback: (10)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LXS020&P=7

that link should be it, if not let me know for the rods. It took me awhile to find em to. 8.99 for 5, 12" rods. if you find em any longer let me know!!!!!

sigflyer

My Feedback: (5)

Solid 4/40 on the large stuff. I am working on a H9 PT 19 with a G23. I need the weight back there so I'm running dual 4/40 inside of Nyrod to 2 separate servos pushing each elev. half.

paperairplanes

My Feedback: (10)

you should try bending one of these aluminum rods, they are pretty tuff.

PJC

Expesive, but awesome. Carbon fiber rod thicker walled and thinner than an arrow shaft. Titanium ends. JB weld the Ends to desired cut length. Have to cut it with a cut off wheel on a dremel. Otherwise it splinters, and cracks. This stuff makes 4-40 rods look like cable in comparison. You can pick up a bag of titanium ends, and a couple of diffrent lengths of the rod. It's what the pattern guys use. I even have one on the elevator of my trainer. I really like the extreme rigidity and weight on my 5.5" control rods on my DPM Extra 330L. Never skimp on control. JMHO

Jeff

Jetman007

My Feedback: (6)

We carry them as well.

http:www.arts-hobby.com

jucava

I tap a CF tube to acept a 4-40 and use gorila glue to glue a 1" 4-40 threated rod(only 1/2" inside), lets see, Haven't test it yet.

carrellh

These come in a lot of Great Planes kits:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK059&P=0
One end is threaded and the other can have a threaded connector soldered on if needed.
The gray housing gets glued into the fuselage. The white splined tube gets cut up and glued along the length of the rod as described by dgrant.

This is a very simple and inexpensive setup that works great for many 40 to 60 size models.

Big models, or those with a lot of load on the pushrods, probably need arrow shafts, 4-40 titanium fittings, and spherical rod ends. So far, I haven’t needed that stuff.

jaka

Hi!
Sullivan blue and red golden rods are not that good! They are not temperature stable and will expand and retract depending on temperature.
What I like best is ordinary steel fishing wire, thinnest possible wire! It's light and gives stiff rudder set ups.
I use it on elevator and siderudder wherever possible.
Next best is aluminum arrow shafts (Easton), these are stiffer and lighter than carbon tubes.
I mostly use the black tubings because these are the hardest (I think).

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

I_FLY_CL

My Feedback: (1)

Jerry Nelson has the tubing in 35 3/4'' lengths
https://www.nelsonhobby.com/propellers.html

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Sullivan makes a version with a steel inner rod. It looks just like the one on the Tower page linked two post ago.




David