TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

I am just putting the finishing touches on this airplane. I have been told that there are some weak areas that need attention. i.e., firewall, landing gear block and wing center section. Does this wing need to be glassed or is it OK just gluing the two halves together? The firewall already has hardwood tri-stock on all sides as is the landing gear area, so is this kit already updated?
I am using C.F landing gear and Light Flite wheels and installed a Hyde type mount and had to build a nose ring cage for an S.T.2300. weight came out at 12 lbs. I saved 3/4lb by using the above changes. I also put the fuel tank on the C.G. So far so good. Any tips or hints on this plane, C.G. throws etc.....

mindcloud

bme50 on mine and the wings hold up great w/o glassing them, i think most of the problems have been w/ poor glue in critical areas, 2 flights on mine and the wing hold down block came loose on one side, i just happened to notice it before taking off again. i would rec giving it good inspection after each flight for a while, heck i guess that would be a good idea to do after all flights

Chris 540

My Feedback: (3)

Why could you possibly need that much power on such a small plane??

L454S

My Feedback: (3)

If you put the tank on the CG with a glow motor, what type pump set up are you going to use?

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

I have the Perry pump/carb on both of my S.T.'s. One is in my pattern plane and that tank is 2 1/2 higher and 14" back of the needle valve and this setup works great. Gary at Conely Precision Motors is great to work with. I have been using Perry carbs since the 70's and they are tough to beat.

mindcloud

hey chris, youre right! it is overkill to the max, it is actually so stupid and crazy i laugh every time i fly it. as to why i put the bme 50 on the h9cap----BECAUSE I COULD. however the 50 will soon go on a dp330, should be much better suited to this plane

bpryor

My Feedback: (45)

Hi mindcloud,

That does sound like a bit of overkill on the Cap, but I agree that motor will be perfect on the DP330, which is what I have. I've seen very few RPM numbers posted for the BME50. Do you have any numbers you can pass on? Make sure and let us know the approx altitude, temp, and the exact prop(s) you're using.

If you don't want to pollute this thread you can send them to me directly at [email protected].

Thanks,

Bill

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Toymaker, I recently picked up two of these steals. They are probably a few months apart in vintage, since one had been sitting on my LHS shelf for a while, and the other my LHS ordered recently. I asked around these forums too about how to identify the updated versions. The few clues I got were:

1. tri stock added to firewall
2. thicker firewall
3. 4 holes for LG instead of 2
4. lightened (built-up?) tail feather

I'm still curious about the LGM reinforcing aluminum L-bracket mentioned in the MAN review. Both of mine have the above changes but not the Al L-bracket. Instead, there is a large piece of hardwood receiving block for two of the four holes, among other wood pieces there near the LGM.

I do get the feeling that H9 made running changes all through the 73" CAP's production cycle. For example, the white foam blocks that give shape the front upper deck and the turtle deck are different on the two I have. On one they are solid blocks, the other has them carved out to look like an arch - apparently for weight saving.

TOYMAKER

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Volfy...

Mine has all those changes... so I think the only thing that I will change is.

Add tri-stock at the wing hold down block.
Make heavier wing dowell hold down inserts.
And fly, fly, fly......

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

I'm going to screw in one screw (1-1/4" maybe) into the hold down block from each fuselage side. They may be somewhat unsightly but good insurance against the hold down block coming loose.

Dazzler

My Feedback: (6)

Volfy, I was going to do the same thing to the wing hold down block with button head type screws, however after looking at the hold down block I cant see how this could come out, because it would rip off the wing saddle part of the fuse, and screws through the fuse would not stop that, I think I'm just going to go with a little tri stock on either side. You can even put tri stock on the top of the block too, on the wing side.