dyrbr_d

I know that Rustoleum is fuel resistant, and was reading that most automotive paints are fuel proof. I was wondering if the automotive paint you buy in cans is fuel proof? I know it isn't the same quality of paint as a shop would use, but I just want to pain a few places on my new plane before mono-koteing the whole plane.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I'm not sure about your question, but I CAN say to be careful wherever you covering ends at a painted area. If your iron touches the paint, it will come off onto the iron and smear on the covering.

dyrbr_d

I was just thinking that engine paint might also work, Most of the chemicals you put in your engine will eat up the paint on your car, so what about a high temperature paint that is designed to pain your engine?

vonJaerschky

My Feedback: (3)

I can't speak for ALL auto paint in spray cans, but I have tried a half dozen or so and none that I tried were fuel proof. These are the small spray cans of laquer. I found that they all went soft and gummy after repeated exposure to fuel. (10% nitro, synth/castor blend).

SoppyJoe

My Feedback: (59)

FWIW,
Von is right, auto paint is not fuel proof. They may hold up to gasoline however, nitro based fuels will melt them right off your plane. You need to put a protective, catalyst hardend clear coat such as PPG/Dupont, over the paint to give it a fuel proof shell!

Joey.

Command Central

My Feedback: (25)

Reliable sources tell that Rustoleum paint (spray cans) is fuel proof(except clear and metallics). It's readily available and I by it Wal Mart for less than $3.00.

klhoard

My Feedback: (10)

Gentlemen,

I went thru this drill over three years ago, working my way down the paint aisle at Lowe's.

ANY one-part paint i.e. - any paint that uses a solvent to stay liquid then hardens when the solvent evaporates (basically anything at Lowe's or Home Depot), will become goo when the nitromethane in our fuel hits it. Nitromethane is an industrial strength solvent, so it is doing what it's made for and turns your nice paintjob back into the state it was before it left the spray can.

Two-part paints - those paints that you mix a hardener with, will be truly fuel proof because the paint hardens by reacting chemically with the hardener, not because a solvent evaporates.

I use a two part primer as well as two part acrylic enamel automotive paint. If you don't use a two-part primer, then you end up with the same mess if the topcoat gets scratched.

This is also why we brush epoxy into the engine compartment. Epoxy is used as a two part "paint" so it doesn't turn gooey when the raw fuel in the engine compartment hits it. In fact, epoxy paint used to be sold but was discontinued by the EPA.

Hope this explanation helps and saves someone some money.

vonJaerschky

My Feedback: (3)

By and large, that is correct. There are some paints that stand up to high nitro very well, though. Not the least of which is Butyrate Dope. I have painted dozens of aircraft with Sig dope, and have never, ever, ever, experienced even the slightest hint of gooiness when the dope becomes exposed to fuel. I have used up to 25% nitro with no adversed effects. Call me old fashioned, but dope is still my favourite finish.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I recently sprayed the inside of my canopy with black automotive lacquer from a can, followed by two coats of TopFlite clear. I then swab tested the finishing with some 15% nitro and no probs. Hope it stands the test of time........

CafeenMan

I've used clear, solvent based polyurethane and it has held up well. I've yet to find any paint in a spray can that was fuel proof - even the one marketed as fuel proof. I've heard that Rustoleum is but I've never tried it.

Years ago I bought some enamel from Sears and sprayed it on an aluminum spinner and then baked it in my over for a while. It came out very hard and held up to an electric spinner for several seasons without even a scratch. Fuel never affected it. Don't know if they still make the stuff, but I think it was basically the same thing as Rustoleum.

Big Sasquatch

Rustoleum Gloss Enamels are definitely fuel proof. The metallics are not however. I use the gloss enamels on my combat planes and they hold up with no problems w/ 15% nitro.......color selection isn't the best though..........

Command Central

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks Kurt. I hope we convince those "Doubting Thomases" that
there is an economical way to paint our aircraft.
Remember, it's important to let the paint dry. The experts say it might take a week or longer for the paint to cure. It depends on temps and humidity.

RCspidey

klhoard;

Hi - There are actually 3 different kinds of paint, and I think a 4th has hit the scene! Years ago when I researched this stuff, there were enamels, which cure through oxidation and polymerization and will not re-dissolve in their solvent, Lacquers, which cure by solvent evaporation and will ALWAYS re-dissolve in their solvent, and lastly, the 2-part paints like epoxies - Pretty resistant to lots of chemicals.

The enamels always form "onion skin" like layers with multiple coats. Lacquers are always one coat/one layer no matter how many coats you apply, because a new coat always re-dissolves existing coats - Real easy for touching up scuffs and scratches. Epoxies won't chemical bond after the previous coat has cured for 24-48 hours, they too will form "skins" with only mechanical bonding between layers. If you re-coat them soon enough, they will chemically bond, which produces the most strength, albeit still layered.

The new ones (at least to me) are the polyurethanes which cure in the presence of atmospheric moisture, like our eurothane glues. I think these would be closest to enamels, but that is just a guess by a non-chemist.

Sooooo . . . I think the ability to stand up to nitro and alcohol is possible with 3 of the 4 types of paint, although it would surely depend on the formulation. I have a painted field box drenched in fuel that is perhaps 15 years old, still looks great, wish I could remember what I painted it with! Something in a can from K-Mart, I seem to recall.

Hope this helps,
Best Regards, Spidey

klhoard

My Feedback: (10)

Spidey,

Thanks for the information on the paint technologies!! I am by no means a paint expert (even though I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once....).

Once I figured out how to use the two part paints, I've just never gone back and tried any other one-parts. I'm glad that people are having success with them.

flyingcubby

My Feedback: (35)

Rustoleum Gloss Enamels are definitely fuel proof. They also sell the product at Orchard Supply under the name of painter's touch. Have never had a problem with 15 % nitro or gas and its economical as well $ 2.59 a can....Regrads Mike :boxing:

RCspidey

Hi Keith & Cubby;

Thanks for the info fellows, seems there is always something new to learn . . .

One thing I forgot about the 2 part epoxies, and that is the cleaning of "blush" between coats. I've seen it mentioned here in different threads, but I'll repeat it anyway because it's pretty important.

Right after an epoxy cures (time depends upon how fast the hardener is), a second coat will chemically bond, and generally no problems will be experienced. As the epoxy continues its cure, most epoxies will "blush" to some degree. This mean that substances within the epoxy that prevent chemical/mechanical bonds to subsequent layers have risen to the surface.

Application of a second coat at this stage will probably result in poor adhesion and "fish eyes" forming in the new surface. The simple fix is a water wash between coats if the last coat was allowed to cure too long, preferably with a Scotch Brite pad or something similar.

I'm not sure how accurately this describes modern epoxy 2-part paints, but suspect they would have the same characteristics as 2-part epoxies in general. Been there, done that . . . <g>

I've got some info and experiences on epoxies as surface finishes on my wood-strip kayak pages at

www.dbeweb.com/kayak

Best Regards.
Spidey

Command Central

My Feedback: (25)

Flying Cubby et. al.
Thanks for backing me up on the fuel proof properties of Rustoleum. Remember, gloss and metallics are NOT fuelproof. Paint must be allowed to cure. Temp. and humidity figure in to drying time.

Command Central