cyclops1970

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can anyone give me a prop center location to the bottom of the Cat Hull ? also what should be done about the space from the copper piece where the flex cable runs to the back of the strut ? im thinking of making a 304 stainless spacers and recesssed into the copper with a collar stop so the distance remains tight ? does that make sence to you ?
here 2 pics of where i am , any input whatso ever would be nice other then the apparent dual rubber system and kinda crap hardware marine specalities stuff i bought

Paul M

That will depend on what hull and engine/pipe do you have. Looks kind a deep right now. Best way to set up is set the hull on a flat table and measure from there. Be sure and pay attention to the angle of the strut as well as the depth which will also control the ride attitude of the hull.

Hope it helps.

martno1fan

Your tube needs to locate into the back of the strut otherwise your going to have abig problem [X(].Heres a pic of my hydro with the tube going into the back of the strut hope this helps.You could maybe extend that tube use the same size tube and next size up to sleeve over the two and epoxy the outer sleeve at one end to hold it in place just make sure your main tube for the flex is the correct length so it cant slide and make sure you debur the ends .Best way would be to get a longer tube and start again but its up to you.

Dan S

Cyclops,
Mart is correct here.

you need to replace the stuffing tube and you want it all the way in the strut.

Prop depth, a good starting point, put your Cat on a flat table, lower the strut down to the table keeping it (the strut) flat. Start from there and than start going up for adjustment.

most, not all but most Cat ends up having the strut 1/8-1/4" above the sponson.

here's your modified pic for ya.



Dan

cyclops1970

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Thank you very much for the info ..
as for the "stuffing tube " i was thinking about making a i guess i'd call it a stuffing tube extender , the old one that was on it had a piece added on the like the one suggestion it had a sleeve in it , i was thinking about making a 304 ss extender that was recessed into the old stuffing tube and fit to the strut lenght with the extender inside old tube as much as possible as i no i'd butcher up the old one and make more of a mess taking the old out , i have no experience what so ever working with epoxy's and could see me glueing my fingers together ..lol
that pic if a get help Thank You

cyclops1970

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also you stated the stuffing tube is to go all the way "threw" the strut ? to the end ? but theres a bronze or brass bearing in there with a 1/4 threw hole . so the tube will not go into it what so ever .. do i press out the bearing and pplace the tube threw it ?

Dan S

are you using a 1/4" flex cable?

normally, the stuffing tube is the next size bigger than your 1/4" shaft and strut. it goes all the way in the strut, than you have the brass bearing it looks like a small brass tube with lots of holes, that goes right in the stuffing tube that is in your strut (should only have the lip of that bearing sticking out) and than you have your flex cable that goes in the whole thing.

Does it make any sense?

Dan.

let me know, I will put up a detailed pic.

martno1fan

The tube just slides in about 1/2" into back of strut as Dan is saying,if you want to extend the tube you have you need to use same diam slid onto the flex and but it up to the existing one and leve it long enough to slide into your strut .Where the two but up add the next size tubing up just say a 4" piece would do and use epoxy to glue it in place just make sure you dont put any epoxy near the join so it can get into the smaller tube or your flex will be glued also[X(].The tube thats there now is the correct size by the looks which is 5/16"int diam.You must grease the tube when you put the flex back in before running,also needs to be removed and regreased after each days running.

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

o0o it only goes in about 1/2 inch .. that makes better sence ..i was under the impression it was going complete through . the brass bearing suppl'd it pressed in and wont allow me to put it in the 1/2 required .. no big deal i can press it out to have it reccess into the strut .. as far as the spacer required i can fart around on the lathe and make something up to go into the strut 1/4 dia with a shoulder and the lenght needed to go into the tube and shoe glue it ? i dont mind messing with that glue , but is that glue ok for marine applications ?
Thanks alot Guys !!
unfortunaly i'll have to wait till Tuesday .. Hoiday Monday .. this is the only time i really want to go to work ..lol

PropCircles

About the space from the stuffing tube - I had the same problem and used a piece of heat shrink tubing. I turned the strut around in order to attach the tubing. It's been working for me for a few years now. Hope this helps.

Bob

martno1fan

It doesnt need any gluing in to the strut in fact dont glue it into it,just glue the sleeve over the two tubes when you join just a dab of epoxy one either end will be enough or you can use loctite retainer etc.The brass bearing in the strut can either be cut down or you can do away with it and use lead teflon bearings that just slide in at either end the choice is yours.

mhayes462

Nothing wrong with the Marine Specailties hardware that you have. They make good stuff. I actually had that same setup, but on a v-hull. I know a lot of people prefer single rudder setups for racing, but the dual rudders will give you better turning in both directions if you are just using it as a play boat. Not too much added weight as some people will claim.

cyclops1970

My Feedback: (5)

yes i know but its a cast alloy which isnt nearly qas strong as anything cut from raw stock and i like shiney things it could be crap but as long as its shiney i'd like it .lol

mhayes462

Yours must have been different, because I polished mine to almost a mirror chrome. I just smoothed down the rough edges with a dremel first and then polished it and my pipe and trim tabs. Very good looking boat. Wish I still had pictures.

mhayes462

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that it is very gas strong. Had a full mod BH Hanson Zen 230 on it.

cyclops1970

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polishing is a dirty crappy job , i have the jewelers rouge needed to polish but i hate doing that i know the end result is nice but so many hours doing it ..

MrMikeG

You don't need "Dual Rudders" on a cat to get it to turn good, it sits flat in the corners so one rudder makes it turn the same in ether direction, not like a "Mono" which banks up. The Marine specalties piece you have is about the heaviest hardware you could hang back there.

That strut is made for a square drive, the space is for the ferrel.

cyclops1970

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Heres what i made , but i am going to use the heat shrink on the ends as well although the are a nice tight fit