Is going from Permagloss To Paint Practicle?
05-14-2003, 02:47 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Is going from Permagloss To Paint Practicle?
I have a 13 year old Goldberg Super Chipmunk that flies like a dream. No kidding, the best plain I ever owned. When I originally built the kit in 1990 I made the mistake of using Coverite's new Permagloss covering. The stuff didn't stick good to it self so a Coverite Rep at a nearby trade show even gave me a free can of Balserite out of sympathy! I also wound up super gluing allot of the seams shut so they would stay together through a whole flying session. Though gluing the seams together worked, at this point they're an eyesore if you look at them too long; yuck! It needs to be refinished and I would rather not use an iron on covering again. I think this plane deserves paint this time. Can anyone tell me if it's practical to try to put a paint finish over what used to be an Iron-On finish? I don't think the Balserite is going to be easy to paint over. Maybe I should try to use Micafilm or some other "better" covering and then paint over that.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
05-14-2003, 12:10 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Spring Hill,
FL
Posts: 4,734
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is going from Permagloss To Paint Practicle?
It really depends on how much effort you want and what you're striving for. If it were me I would strip the covering and start from scratch. You may be able to use acetone to remove the CA and balsarite around the seems. I don't know what that will do to the covering though.
I've never used permagloss, but I've used Coverite and Solartex and both took paint well.
I've never used permagloss, but I've used Coverite and Solartex and both took paint well.
05-14-2003, 01:14 PM
#3
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: O\'fallon,
MO
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is going from Permagloss To Paint Practicle?
I am just finishing re-covering and painting a large 85" scratch built high wing. I used Oz cover from Saturn Hobbies to recover and am impressed with it. Very tough material. Not as flexible as monocote or fabric, but if you don't have a lot of compound curves it works great. Just about impossible to burn a hole in it.
I wiped it down with acetone and scuffed with 400 wet or dry. I used all Rust Olieum paints. However, I added 1 oz PPG OMNI MH 101 hardner to each 4 oz of paint and thinned whth OMNI general purpose thinner. This gives a much harder and quicker curing finish than Rust Oleum alone. After two days it is fully fuel proof, gas or glow, with the hardner added.
I got as good a finish on this as some others I have finished with Auto paints at one tenth the work.
I wiped it down with acetone and scuffed with 400 wet or dry. I used all Rust Olieum paints. However, I added 1 oz PPG OMNI MH 101 hardner to each 4 oz of paint and thinned whth OMNI general purpose thinner. This gives a much harder and quicker curing finish than Rust Oleum alone. After two days it is fully fuel proof, gas or glow, with the hardner added.
I got as good a finish on this as some others I have finished with Auto paints at one tenth the work.
