BykrDan

Hello;

I have a decision to make regarding how to mount a tailwheel for a GeeBee Z (I know the original didn't have a tailwheel, but I'm planning on doing most of my flying from pavement, and I think a skid would behave horribly).

I can either mount it fixed to the tail of the fuse, or steerable to the bottom of the rudder.

If I go on the fuse, I'm going to have to make a small platform, about 1/2" under the surface of the body, to get to a surface strong enough to mount to - the rudder post and stringers extend downward a little bit from the frame (and it doesn't sound wise to mount a tailwheel to stringers). That will make the tailwheel wire pretty long.

I can mount it to the bottom of the rudder, which seems to be the way to go, except that I've heard I should keep the pivot point in line with the hinges as much as possible to reduce strain on the servos. The rudder will attach with three Dubro nylon hinges. They look pretty tough. I dont think I can really use one of those steerable tailwheel brackets, much as I'd like to, without doing some major hacking on the fuse area.

What would you do?
Thanks,
Dan.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

How about one of these?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ931&P=0

CafeenMan

I've never had a problem with a skid on pavement. Usually for a tail wheel I use an tailwheel bracket or an aileron bracket in the tail post of the fuselage. Then drill a hole for inner nyrod in the rudder and glue the nyrod in. When you glue the rudder to the fin, slide the tailwheel wire into the nyrod and let it float. I've never had one break loose or strip the gears in a servo.

Personally I would stick with the tail skid and reinforce it with a piece of music wire underneath so it would wear longer.

BykrDan

Thanks guys - plenty of food for thought.

My rudder hinge line will be pretty tight - I'm not sure I'll be able to work a piece of wire up there big enough to support the plane (plus, my lowest hinge will be pretty near the bottom of the rudder). But I have a few ideas now. One of my options is to just bury the wire up in the rudder post.

I may very well just do the skid. If it proves too much to handle, I'll just find some dirt to take off from!

Thanks,
Dan.

CafeenMan

BykrDan - The rudder doesn't support the tailwheel. I left that part out. Use a wheel collar under the bracket so the bracket takes the load. The only thing the rudder does is stear the tailwheel. It's really a simple set up.

You'll have to route out the bottom of the rudder for the wire, but that's pretty simple. Just drag a 1/16" drill bit (or whatever size tail wheel wire) along it to remove the wood. Takes all of 3 minutes.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

The thing I showed you IS the bottom hinge. The wire get's imbedded into the rudder so it doesn't interfere with the hinge line and is epoxied in. The tab on the bushing get's epoxied into the Fuse.

SALMONBUG

My Feedback: (1)

on the above drawing, the rudder is suporting tailwheel load. I won't say it's dramatic, but usually I avoid this kind of assembly.

BykrDan

Thanks guys, for all the tips.

I mounted it last evening, very similar to what's shown above, but instead of being steerable, I sunk it into a channel and hole in the rudder post, and epoxied and glassed it in place there. It looks nice and works great. I had originally been worried that I would weaken the rudder post, but with a piece of steel epoxied and glassed in place, I'll bet it's even stronger now.

Thank you.
Dan.

CafeenMan

OK, what I'm talking about is exactly what MinnFlyer posted but with a wheel collar under the bracket to transfer the load to the bracket. I actually like to use a washer soldered on with a nice fillet. It's lighter and looks better.

mjd3

That's why I like these. Simple, reliable, easy to install.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFV46&P=0