anyone tried this ?
#1
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anyone tried this ?
welding a one way bearing in a socket & using a drill to start it ? I have a small but STRONG & FAST cordless drill that would work awsome . I can use the one way bearing in the easy start when I take it off .
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RE: anyone tried this ?
What do you mean by a socket? Is that the hole on the engine back plate where the engine crank goes into the back of for a pull start?
As for starting some of my RCs, I have used a drill on reverse to start roto-start engines. And my drill is 10x more reliable than the sorry way overpriced handheld roto start units.
As for starting some of my RCs, I have used a drill on reverse to start roto-start engines. And my drill is 10x more reliable than the sorry way overpriced handheld roto start units.
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RE: anyone tried this ?
I assume you want to do this mod on your TRX3.3.
What I would do is buy a Traxxas pullstart, and mod that instead. Remove the spring and pullstart handle, and remove the pullstart spring. If you can rig up a part to grab the spool to spin it, it will start up the engine. The pull start assmbly already has a one way mechanism in it so a OWB being welded to the back plate is not required.
(You dont want to weld to alum alloy anyways, you will destroy the temper treatment, and the taiwan alloy of TRX engines will not stand up to the welding of steel to it)
What I would do is buy a Traxxas pullstart, and mod that instead. Remove the spring and pullstart handle, and remove the pullstart spring. If you can rig up a part to grab the spool to spin it, it will start up the engine. The pull start assmbly already has a one way mechanism in it so a OWB being welded to the back plate is not required.
(You dont want to weld to alum alloy anyways, you will destroy the temper treatment, and the taiwan alloy of TRX engines will not stand up to the welding of steel to it)
#6
RE: anyone tried this ?
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
I assume you want to do this mod on your TRX3.3.
What I would do is buy a Traxxas pullstart, and mod that instead. Remove the spring and pullstart handle, and remove the pullstart spring. If you can rig up a part to grab the spool to spin it, it will start up the engine. The pull start assmbly already has a one way mechanism in it so a OWB being welded to the back plate is not required.
(You dont want to weld to alum alloy anyways, you will destroy the temper treatment, and the taiwan alloy of TRX engines will not stand up to the welding of steel to it)
I assume you want to do this mod on your TRX3.3.
What I would do is buy a Traxxas pullstart, and mod that instead. Remove the spring and pullstart handle, and remove the pullstart spring. If you can rig up a part to grab the spool to spin it, it will start up the engine. The pull start assmbly already has a one way mechanism in it so a OWB being welded to the back plate is not required.
(You dont want to weld to alum alloy anyways, you will destroy the temper treatment, and the taiwan alloy of TRX engines will not stand up to the welding of steel to it)
Welding on the backplate?
He's talking about welding a Owb to a socket. That way you can just put the owb on the start shaft. Start it and pull it off. No more parasitic drag from the owb while running.
You can't weld aluminum alloys to a steel, just won't stick, not to mention cast iron...
I'd be worried about dirt getting in though.
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RE: anyone tried this ?
ORIGINAL: levans498
no I was saying weld the bearing into the socket . You should NEVER weld on a motor
no I was saying weld the bearing into the socket . You should NEVER weld on a motor
Year, I am thinking dirt would be a problem too.
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RE: anyone tried this ?
if its a trx engine it wont work they need a back plate in place due to the crank case being open with the oneway bearing (oneway way bearings need oil)
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RE: anyone tried this ?
it works. ive done it but its not very conventional. dirt really wasnt the problem just the oils getting everywhere. if you could make some sort of plate to go over the bearing but still have the shaft sticking out it would work pretty well. it wouldnt be that hard to make the plate either. and if the owb isnt on the engine when its running, it doesnt need oil cause it isnt constantly spinning, just used to start it. this method does increase the life of the owb, but i really wouldnt say its very safe. i would just get the rotostart and use your drill with that.
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RE: anyone tried this ?
ORIGINAL: ridikt
it works. ive done it but its not very conventional. dirt really wasnt the problem just the oils getting everywhere. if you could make some sort of plate to go over the bearing but still have the shaft sticking out it would work pretty well. it wouldnt be that hard to make the plate either. and if the owb isnt on the engine when its running, it doesnt need oil cause it isnt constantly spinning, just used to start it. this method does increase the life of the owb, but i really wouldnt say its very safe. i would just get the rotostart and use your drill with that.
it works. ive done it but its not very conventional. dirt really wasnt the problem just the oils getting everywhere. if you could make some sort of plate to go over the bearing but still have the shaft sticking out it would work pretty well. it wouldnt be that hard to make the plate either. and if the owb isnt on the engine when its running, it doesnt need oil cause it isnt constantly spinning, just used to start it. this method does increase the life of the owb, but i really wouldnt say its very safe. i would just get the rotostart and use your drill with that.
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RE: anyone tried this ?
The crankshaft to the engine goes through a bushing on the starter side of the engine (the non-flywheel side). Taking the engine apart, there is a hole to feed fuel (lubrication) to that bushing using positive pressure in the crank case. I presume a small amount of this weeps over to the OWB.
I would be very, very concerned, not from contamination of the OWB from dirt (you're using it so infrequently, relative to what its normal duty is), but from contamination of that crank bushing from dirt. It will be wet with fluid by definition, attracting dust. A little bit of that dust in the bronze bushing will eat it quickly.
That's why folks who don't want the drag of a OWB use a starter box acting on the flywheel and seal up the back end of the engine.
I think it is a nifty thought and the OWB itself will be fine with a little bit of care, but is a quick path to ruining the rear bushing of your engine.
I would be very, very concerned, not from contamination of the OWB from dirt (you're using it so infrequently, relative to what its normal duty is), but from contamination of that crank bushing from dirt. It will be wet with fluid by definition, attracting dust. A little bit of that dust in the bronze bushing will eat it quickly.
That's why folks who don't want the drag of a OWB use a starter box acting on the flywheel and seal up the back end of the engine.
I think it is a nifty thought and the OWB itself will be fine with a little bit of care, but is a quick path to ruining the rear bushing of your engine.
#14
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RE: anyone tried this ?
ORIGINAL: lean is mean
does the owb really drag the motor down that much to justify a bump box?
does the owb really drag the motor down that much to justify a bump box?
Well, imo I think its the reverse, i think the bump box is more of a pain in the arse than a owb is simply because using a one way bearing to start it via a pull start or other electric start; u really dont have to worry about lugging around the starter box everywhere u go; and imo i would much rather deal with a pull, roto, or ez start with a owb than have to deal with a starter box.....just my .02 here....
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RE: anyone tried this ?
ORIGINAL: lean is mean
does the owb really drag the motor down that much to justify a bump box?
does the owb really drag the motor down that much to justify a bump box?
#16
RE: anyone tried this ?
does the owb really drag the motor down that much to justify a bump box?
Well... that is different... bump start motors aren't spinning the start shaft that the owb spins on. Pullstarts, roto starts, etc, have the extra drag from the owb AND the start shaft. Non pull start motors might have a little better throttle response because of this, but the power difference would be un-noticable.
But some non pullstart motors are turbo head while the p/s version isn't and the non pulls have a little more power due to timing in the crank and the turbo head. The picco p3 .28 is one of em.